Wednesday, July 25, 2012

STYLE: Train Travel


STYLE

Train Travel

My favorite mode of vacation travel is by train. I like choosing a travel destination where I'm not going to need a car. There is something gratifying about railroad time, watching the countryside go by, and arriving at a new place gradually. Desert gives way to flat fields and ranches, which slowly builds into a city.

From the Albuquerque Amtrak station it's an overnight trip on the Southwest Chief to either Chicago or Los Angeles. Albuquerqueans are lucky to have a stop that boards in the middle of the day, unlike some stations, which pick up passengers at night. I would be less enthusiastic if I had to get on the train at 3 AM in the morning.

Going east, all mid-country trains head to Chicago. Unfortunately, there are no north/south Amtrak connections between Denver and El Paso. The local commuter train, the Rail Runner, does connect Albuquerque with Santa Fe, as the Amtrak train stops at Lamy, rather than Santa Fe proper.

I've been told the route through Denver, the California Zephyr, is one of the most beautiful trips.

Union Station, at the end of the line in Chicago, is located by a block just across the river from the Loop. It's a short walk to connect to the 'L' subway line. For some reason, Chicago's trains, subways, and commuter rails don't quite connect as seamlessly as most other major cities. However, it's still possible to get around, particularly when buses are added in.

The only Amtrak connection I have done in Chicago is Cleveland. When a four hour layover at the Chicago station is added in, Cleveland is more like a two day trip from Albuquerque. Some city connections, like Milwaukee, are much shorter. If you ever find yourself at the station with hours to spare, I recommend locking up your luggage and spending time walking around Chicago's Downtown. There are a bunch of great restaurants nearby.

Los Angeles, going west from Albuquerque, is a particularly notorious city for being spread out. I haven't tried to get around most of the city, preferring to stay in the Downtown area, where there are plenty of amenities and tourist attractions. The Amtrak stop, Union Station, is the regional transportation hub and connects with the commuter lines. It also links with the Amtrak west coast routes.

I particularly enjoy taking the train up the coast to Santa Barbara. A free trolley runs up and down their tourist row of restaurants and shops, with access near the train stop.

Bicycles are allowed on the Pacific Surfliner from Los Angeles to Santa Barbara, and some other routes, but not the Southwest Chief, unless crated like the airlines require.

Travelers are permitted a couple pieces of luggage, which can be checked, without any additional fees I'm aware of, as long as they meet size and weight restrictions. The train is a little more generous on size than the airlines.

So far, all of the stations I've traveled to have been located in decent neighborhoods close to amenities. Albuquerque may be one of the dicier stops, as it shares facilities with the Greyhound bus, and south of the station is an abandoned rail yard that's rather rough. (If you're a fan of Breaking Bad, however, walk just outside of the station and gawk. But don't wander too far.)



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